02/27/14
This is my account of the steps that took place during my second attempt at brewing beer. This beer will be referred to as BEER #2. The instructions that came with my beer kit were very specific, detailed, and thorough. After reading all of the steps required I was now ready to get brewing! Here is how is unravelled.
*** Before starting any brewing, proper sanitation of workspace and equipment should be completed!! (See: Cleanliness Is Next To...) ***
This beer required that some of the grains be steeped in order to break down their sugars before starting the wort.
Here is how I did this:
- Poured 1 gallon of water into large metal pot
- Poured grains into grain bag and tied a loose knot at the end
- Using a cooking thermometer, monitor the water's temperature, allowing it to come to 155 degrees F
- Place the bag of grains into the water
- Keep the temperature between 148-152 degrees F for 45 min.
After 45 min., I removed the bag of grains and added another 1.5 gallons of warm water to the wort. (12:00)
I then brought the wort to a rolling boil added the 3.3 lb. of liquid malt extract, being sure to mix continuously to prevent sticking.
The consistency and scent of the liquid malt extract was very similar to molasses. They are probably quite similar.
(12:30)
It was now time to add the Liberty hops to the wort. With the wort continuing at a gentle boil, I added the 1 oz. bag of Liberty hop pellets. Hop pellets are a form of hops that have been processed and dried into small pellets that look similar to rabbit food.
Immediately upon hitting the wort, the pellets transformed the surface of the wort into a layer of green, smelling up the kitchen with wonderful aromas.
I continued to allow the wort to boil for another 40 minutes.
(13:15)
The step was adding the 2 lb. of dried malt extract and spice pack. Normally the dried malt extract would be added to the wort during the same time as the liquid malt extract. However, due to the style of this beer, it is added later in order to produce a light colored beer.
Once the dried malt extract was added I allowed the wort to boil for another 5 minutes before adding another 1 oz. portion of hops, this time GR Tetnang hops.
(13:35)
I boiled the wort for 10 min. after adding the second ounce of hops and then terminated the boil. The total boiling time for the wort was around 60 minutes.
(13:35 - 14:05)
Immediately after terminating the boil, I removed the wort from the stove and placed it in an ice bath in order to bring the temperature down from about 210 degrees F to 70 degrees F.
The reason that these measures are taken to reduce the wort's temperature as quickly as possible is due to the vulnerability of the wort to environment contamination. It is important to reduce the amount of time that the wort is exposed to microbes while at temperatures below 210 degrees F.
Once the wort's temperature reduced to 70 degrees F, I poured it into the 6.5 gallon carboy fermenter, taking special care to not allow the sediment at the bottom of the pot to get into the carboy.
(14:10)
Because this recipe was designed to make 5 gallons of beer, 2.5 gallons of water need to be added to the wort in order to accomplish this volume. However, it is also important to not add too much water because any addition to the wort will ultimately influence the specific gravity and ABV %. In order to be sure that this didn't happen, I added the water to the carboy in gallon intervals, measuring the specific gravity between additions.
One final variable I needed to consider before deciding on a final volume was that my hydrometer was intended to be used in liquids of 60 degrees F. At this time my wort was 68 degrees F, meaning that any measurements taken would be off by 0.002 - 0.003. These figures are not very significant but given the nature of this project, I decided to calculate my decision with these variables in mind.
My final total volume ended up being 5 gallons with a specific gravity of 1.050. Almost perfect!
(14:25)
I added the final ingredient to the wort before its rendezvous with BEER #1: yeast. The instructions for the yeast used in this recipe were to not rehydrate them, otherwise I would have done so as I did while brewing BEER #1. Instead, I just poured the yeast from their packet into the carboy and vigorously mixed the wort to be sure that the yeast were evenly distributed. I then installed the fermentation lock and moved BEER #2 to a similar location as BEER #1. The reason that I did not install a blowoff hose for BEER #2 is because the wort has a volume of 5 gallons and will be fermenting in a 6.5 gallon carboy. There will not be enough blowoff to reach the hose in this case. Had I used a 5 gallon carboy for BEER #2, I would have also installed this hose.
Well, BEER #2 was much more intense to produce than BEER #1. I am eager to see how each comes out. From here I'll be updating my blog each time something new and exciting happens to either beer.
(13:15)
The step was adding the 2 lb. of dried malt extract and spice pack. Normally the dried malt extract would be added to the wort during the same time as the liquid malt extract. However, due to the style of this beer, it is added later in order to produce a light colored beer.
Once the dried malt extract was added I allowed the wort to boil for another 5 minutes before adding another 1 oz. portion of hops, this time GR Tetnang hops.
(13:35)
I boiled the wort for 10 min. after adding the second ounce of hops and then terminated the boil. The total boiling time for the wort was around 60 minutes.
(13:35 - 14:05)
Immediately after terminating the boil, I removed the wort from the stove and placed it in an ice bath in order to bring the temperature down from about 210 degrees F to 70 degrees F.
The reason that these measures are taken to reduce the wort's temperature as quickly as possible is due to the vulnerability of the wort to environment contamination. It is important to reduce the amount of time that the wort is exposed to microbes while at temperatures below 210 degrees F.
Once the wort's temperature reduced to 70 degrees F, I poured it into the 6.5 gallon carboy fermenter, taking special care to not allow the sediment at the bottom of the pot to get into the carboy.
(14:10)
Because this recipe was designed to make 5 gallons of beer, 2.5 gallons of water need to be added to the wort in order to accomplish this volume. However, it is also important to not add too much water because any addition to the wort will ultimately influence the specific gravity and ABV %. In order to be sure that this didn't happen, I added the water to the carboy in gallon intervals, measuring the specific gravity between additions.
One final variable I needed to consider before deciding on a final volume was that my hydrometer was intended to be used in liquids of 60 degrees F. At this time my wort was 68 degrees F, meaning that any measurements taken would be off by 0.002 - 0.003. These figures are not very significant but given the nature of this project, I decided to calculate my decision with these variables in mind.
My final total volume ended up being 5 gallons with a specific gravity of 1.050. Almost perfect!
(14:25)
I added the final ingredient to the wort before its rendezvous with BEER #1: yeast. The instructions for the yeast used in this recipe were to not rehydrate them, otherwise I would have done so as I did while brewing BEER #1. Instead, I just poured the yeast from their packet into the carboy and vigorously mixed the wort to be sure that the yeast were evenly distributed. I then installed the fermentation lock and moved BEER #2 to a similar location as BEER #1. The reason that I did not install a blowoff hose for BEER #2 is because the wort has a volume of 5 gallons and will be fermenting in a 6.5 gallon carboy. There will not be enough blowoff to reach the hose in this case. Had I used a 5 gallon carboy for BEER #2, I would have also installed this hose.
Well, BEER #2 was much more intense to produce than BEER #1. I am eager to see how each comes out. From here I'll be updating my blog each time something new and exciting happens to either beer.
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